0 Men’s Fashion Basics – Part 79 – Layering & Fabric Basics

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Introduction

This piece could of very easily turned into a rant about how rubbish our English summer has been so far. Like how I’ve basically had to keep my entire seasonal wardrobe readily available, because with each new day comes a new change in weather. And how, due to this temperamental temperature we are experiencing, I’ve been unable to practise one of my favourite sartorial techniques – mixing textiles and materials.

OK, so this piece is already turning into a little bit of a rant. But I promise that’s all the moaning out of my system and I’ll just focus on explaining how to mix textiles the correct and stylish way. The art of mixing materials and textures is not something simply reserved for the summer, it can be done all year round.

This is because, as we all should know, there are some materials that are more suited for colder climates and others for warmer weather. It’s the ability to distinguish the two that really is the key. However, there is one thing that you need to get your head around first…

Layering Basics

That one thing is how to layer properly. There are plenty of you out there going about it all wrong, and it’s very easy to fix. All you have to do is follow the simple rule of thin to thick. What I mean by this is that when you’re putting together a look, the pieces that you layer together should get thicker and more heavyweight as you progress outwards.

For example, in the winter, a lot of guys like to pair their flannel plaid shirts with v-neck jumpers – and there’s nothing wrong with this look aesthetically. However, it’s just plain wrong and illogical. Due to the thick heavy nature of a material like flannel, most gents opt for a thin cotton jumper because they are already feeling warm and cosy from the shirt.

In reality, you should swap the two around so that the lighter cotton will be closer to your skin, allowing you a bit more breathe-ability while the outer layer of flannel will keep you warm. Alternatively, if you were to pair that flannel shirt with a tweed blazer, then yes, it should be your first layer. There are also plenty of plaid shirts out there in lighter cottons, so all you would have to do is pair one of them with a thicker lamb’s wool jumper and you’re on to a winner.

Men’s Layering: Lookbook Examples

Fabric Basics

Summer Appropriate Fabrics

Now all you need to understand is which textiles relate to summer or winter. And that even if a material is made from a lightweight fabric, such as linen, it can in reality be a substantial piece to both wear and look at. For example, plenty of linen blazers still have a lot of weight and ‘heft’ to them – making them perfect outer pieces for layering in warmer months, but still negating the risk of overheating too much.

Other great materials for the warmer months are as follows: seersucker, whipcord, poplin cotton, madras, chambray and lightweight wools. Yes, you can wear wool in the summer. Just make sure it’s less than 8oz in weight and you will find that it will be more breathable and cooler than most other fabrics out there.

Finally, if you happen to have a penchant for extravagant spending and design, Zegna showcased plenty of suits in silk within their SS13 collection at Milan, which is another great lightweight fabric that oozes elegance and luxury.

                   

Winter Appropriate Fabrics

Winter fabrics include tweed, flannel, corduroy, thicker cottons (such as oxford cloth), lamb’s wool, cashmere, mohair and merino wool.

With corduroy, be aware of how big the wales are – which is the size of the ribbing of the material. If it has a wide wale then it will be more suited as an outer layer, due to its thicker and more beefy nature, while pinwale corduroy is much thinner and can even be found on some shirts and trousers.

                           

The Final Word

So there you have it, a quick and easy guide on the basics of layering and how you should be mixing materials and textures. Just remember which materials complement each other and the ‘thin to thick’ rule and you can’t go wrong. Next week we will put these rules into practise and I will provide you with a variety of go-to layered looks that you can incorporate into your arsenal.

But for now, why not tell me what you think about mixing textiles? Are there any tips and techniques you use that I’ve not mentioned? Or do you just ignore this whole ‘thing’ all together? Let me know guys!

   

     

 

 

 

 

 

   

0 How To Wear: The Overcoat

   

Introduction

I saw another chap walking around in shorts and flip flops the other day, and I was so irrationally angry that it ruined my entire day. Unless you are charging around on a rugby pitch, shorts just aren’t acceptable at this time of year and the footwear of Beelzebub himself is just taking the proverbial. This is especially foolish if they happen to be with their SENSIBLE friends, who have very sensibly, worn sensible shoes, a sensible coat and a sensible scarf. The cold is here people; embrace it.

It’s interesting to see how the way men dress changes as it gets colder, particularly with regards to coats and jackets. We seem to be a gender of opposites – for example, I know people that won’t wear anything thicker than a denim jacket during the winter and I know other people that will drag out their winter coat as soon as the wind starts picking up. Whether this is simply down to how they cope with the shifts in temperature or just pure bloody mindedness is anyone’s guess, but it does create a strange dynamic.

As the above story has identified, we don’t all dress the same (and some of us just need a bloody good talking to). Personally, and I’m sure this is true for many of you, my winter coat is a crucial part of almost every outfit I wear during these chilly months, so it seems odd that such an important part of a man’s wardrobe can be so oft neglected.

Perhaps it’s because they don’t like any of the coats on offer, or maybe they have been put off by the sudden shifting of trends – how many quilted jackets have you seen this year? I’ve seen a lot less of them and a lot more parkas. But they could equally be of the opinion that a winter coat is just plain unnecessary.

The Overcoat

However, for all of us sane people, our winter coat takes some serious consideration. It is by no means a quick and simple choice, and we have many things to consider when we are looking for the perfect one: Colour, shape, length, style, material, our style at large, the list could go on.

I took a look at my personal choice of winter coat a few weeks ago, but as fantastic as the peacoat is (especially mine), it isn’t for everyone. The overcoat, on the other hand, could be just the one for you; particularly those of you with a more smart than casual mindset.

As with so many of our other favourite items, the overcoat is an outer layer steeped in history. An overcoat of some description has been made by someone, somewhere, since 1772. Beloved of the aristocracy (both here and abroad), it also assisted in many a war effort and from the 1950s onwards, affectionately know as a Crombie, became a solid feature in Teddy Boy, Mod and Skinhead subcultures.

But that’s enough of the history lesson. The overcoat is a serious contender for your wardrobe which offers warmth, sharp lines and style by the bucket load. But how might you wear one?

How To Wear: The Overcoat

Of course, most of us will associate the overcoat with work wear – men working in the city, pounding the pavements and losing all of our money. This is where you will find the overcoat most at home, particularly if you have opted for a coat that has a very formal cut and refined features.

If you choose to go down this route then you won’t ever go wrong with a black, navy or grey coat. All of these will be completely interchangeable with your existing work wardrobe and yet still easy enough to dress down at the weekend.

You could of course say to hell with conformity and opt for something completely different. Whilst you might think this coat from Reiss is a bit restrictive in colour, think again. It will work perfectly well with black, grey and navy suits, you just need to take quite a big colour leap and wear it with confidence.

If you wanted to go for a more country gent look, try finding a coat in green tweed or maybe even a burgundy.

           

 

When looking for the perfect overcoat, you must always bear in mind their inherent design features. They are (as is any coat) designed to fit over either a suit or numerous under layers, which will make the coat slightly boxier than you might envisage (and probably bigger on the shoulders) – it’s definitely worth trying them on with the clothes you’ll most often be wearing under it. It shouldn’t be overly slim fitting.

With the overcoat being an inherently smart item, the easiest way to wear it casually is to err on the side of smart/casual dressing – think good leather shoes, smarter chinos and a shirt.

You can of course chuck on a cardigan and mix in some interesting accessories to add that bit of individuality. I saw a chap wearing driving gloves the other day and it looked pretty cool, so when you simply want to take the edge off a chill, they might be worth a look.

As per usual, this is a look that can be completely interchangeable with regards to colour and textures, so try switching in some wool trousers or a gingham check shirt. Play around with your coat and see what works best.

       

 

I’m going to go slightly against what I said in the last look, but bear with me. Overcoats can be worn in a casual way, you just need to find the right one. In this instance, something single breasted and in grey will probably be the easiest to wear.

Once again, there isn’t really any need to overdress something like this, simplicity will give you consistent results every time, so stick with what you know. A check shirt, slim jeans and boots will always be a winning combination but you could equally go for something a little smarter like a fine knit roll neck (still with jeans) or a plain polo. You could also pull out your coloured chinos but I would stop short of cords, they are a little too far the other way.

Always have your capsule wardrobe in mind – being able to swap each part of an outfit for a variety of other items in your wardrobe will make your life easier and much more stylish.

          

Men’s Overcoat Recommendations

                                                

Final Word

If you aren’t a fan of any of the other styles of coats currently on the market, then the overcoat is well worth a look. Its clean lines and classic shape, either single or double breasted, will make it last for many seasons to come. Choose carefully and you will have a hugely versatile coat, suitable for both work and the weekend.

But now I want your views, so let me know what you think of the overcoat in the comments section below.